Brisbane's #1 Ramen
Outstanding ramen broth, an interesting crab omelette and my first injera experience
On this week’s Table for One, I’ve ticked off a trio of places that have been living rent-free on my to-eat list. Some have been astoundingly good while others not quite as much. Regardless, this week I enjoyed all three venues in different ways.
Ramen Kann
I’ve always said that if I had to choose between pho and ramen, the answer was always pho. It’s light, it’s nourishing, I could eat it any time, any day of the week. Ramen is, of the two, the richer, more luxurious noodle soup. And it has its role, but seldom in my life do I prefer it.
That’s until I went to Ramen Kann.
Going into this, I had heard things about the restaurant that struck me (as someone who has eaten widely across many countries and price points, things seldom surprise me these days) — a) They only make chicken-based broth, and b) The owner will not open for business if the broth is below standard.
This level of commitment to quality rings clearer than a 6am alarm on a Monday morning. The original broth (Nagoya-style chicken paitan) is creamy, complex, deeply savoury, rich and somehow light all at once. The spicy version of the broth has the addition of spicy miso which complemented the clean chicken flavour without being overpowering.
Deluxe ramens included spring onion, bean sprouts, a perfect marinated soft-boiled egg and three generous slices of tender pork. The noodles are cooked how I like it — with a little bite (al dente, if you will).
Ramen Kann is one of those restaurants that only have a handful of menu items but execute them deftly. Other than the chicken ramen, there’s also a vegetable ramen, gyozas (veg or pork) and a pork rice bowl. The pork gyoza were very fresh and well-balanced with a crisp exterior — full points.
14 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba
Idle
I wonder if Idle’s name has anything to do with the saying, “Idle hands make the devil’s plaything”? This venue feels as if Anyday Group’s hands became idle and they just needed to cross cafe off their list. Is it stylish? Sure, if you’re obsessed with stainless steel. Is it buzzy and atmospheric? Yes, inevitably. Is it what Brisbane is missing? I wish it was.
The menu reads as minimalist, “seasonal” and cool — tomato toast, European breakfast plates (more Scandi rye and eggs than Italian brioche and granita), green bowls and fish burgers. Very Florian, very Apotek 57.
My eye was caught by the steamed crab omelette. Crab omelette is often seen on cafe menus but it rarely tastes like how it reads. Unfortunately, this one was extra confusing — for $36, there was about two tablespoons of crab and it was all in the very top of the “omelette”. (I’ve used scare quotes because it was closer to a brick of egg.) The egg, which is on half a piece of toast, is cloaked with a creamy but bland choron (tomato bearnaise sauce) and some token salmon roe. There was also a negligible smattering of mixed salad leaves in true cafe fashion.
I will give props to their hash brown ($8 add-on) — very crispy and seasoned nicely. The matcha was lacking in flavour and there were clumpy milk solids floating about (is this punishment for drinking full cream?).
The display cabinet boasts a good variety of sweet treats — kouign amann, croissants, doughnuts and miscellaneous laminated pastries (cinnamon log?) — as well as sandwiches, bread and pies. Next time, it might be safer to opt for a couple of sandwiches, canele and juices to take to New Farm Park.
84 Merthyr Rd, New Farm
Aribhu
The Ranchhod Arcade in Moorooka has black-and-white tiles, fluorescent lights and a winding staircase straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. There are multiple small businesses inside — tailors, restaurants, a barbershop.
On the lower ground of the arcade is Arhibu Restaurant, a small Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant. The space feels like a family home, lined with traditional Ethiopian art and artefacts. On a Friday night, the place is lively with groups of friends and families.
The menu covers a bit of everything: crispy filo parcels stuffed with spiced beef mince, lentil stews and choose-your-own meat and veg platters that come with ample injera (fermented flatbread) for dipping.
I couldn’t quite get used to the fermented, acidity of the injera but it balanced the richness of the curries and the texture is light and satisfying. The curries we chose for our platter — key tibs (spiced lamb), lamb molokhia (lamb and spinach), doro wot (chicken) and key wot (beef) — were complex and comforting, and packed a good amount of heat. The platters are also excellent value at $22pp.
They also offer traditional Ethiopian coffee service, a necessary pick-me-up after a big meal.
Shop 21- 197/201 Beaudesert Rd, Moorooka